Salumi-making is an intricate blend of tradition, science, and creativity. In a conversation with Culinary Guide Shop’s Dan Latham on The meez Podcast, a seasoned expert in the craft, we explored the process, challenges, and innovation involved in curing meats.
Latham’s unique contributions to the culinary world, particularly in the development of salumi for Batali and Bastianich’s restaurants, showcase the deep intersection of tradition and progress in this age-old practice.
A Bold Leap into New York’s Culinary Scene
Dan Latham’s path into the culinary world is far from ordinary. Before donning a chef’s apron, he was entrenched in the aerospace industry, selling titanium to manufacturers of airplane engines and even missile components. Despite his career success, the dream of owning a restaurant lingered. Early memories of his grandfather’s victory garden and his grandmother’s impeccable canning abilities sparked his lifelong connection to food. These experiences planted the seeds for his eventual leap into the culinary world.
Leaving behind the structured world of aerospace, Latham packed his bags for New York City and enrolled at the French Culinary Institute. His first gigs were unconventional—freelance cooking at the Food Network and an early introduction to restaurant life through an ad for cooks at Babbo. Despite initial challenges and minimal experience, Latham’s determination opened doors, eventually leading him to work under Mario Batali.
One of Latham’s most unique contributions to the culinary world was his role in developing salumi for Batali and Bastianich’s restaurants. This wasn’t just about making cured meats—it was about innovation. Collaborating with Batali’s father, Armandino, who later founded the renowned Salumi Artisan Cured Meats in Seattle, Latham honed the art of salami production.
Together, they engineered a state-of-the-art curing facility in Union Square, complete with intricate temperature and humidity controls, akin to monitoring aerospace-grade systems.
A Dream Job in Salumi Making
For Dan, the salumi studio he helped build and manage under Mario Batali’s guidance was more than a job—it was a dream. "As a young, curious cook, the study of oil and wine is a pretty good way to go," he shared. The setup was unlike the grind of a typical restaurant, offering an environment where creativity and curiosity thrived.
The studio was a hub of experimentation, featuring an advanced curing room engineered by Mario's father. “It looked like I was monitoring nuclear waste,” Dan joked, describing the complex humidifiers and dehumidifiers, along with an ink-driven chart that tracked temperature and humidity as part of the HACCP plan.
This state-of-the-art facility became a training ground for Dan and his team, who balanced USDA-compliant salumi production with traditional Italian methods brought over by Valter Scarbolo and his butchers from Udine.
The Influence of Two Worlds
One of the most compelling aspects of Dan's journey was navigating the divide between these two worlds:
- USDA Standards and Mario’s Father: As the studio's engineer, Mario's father prioritized safety and consistency, advocating for curing salts like sodium nitrate and nitrite to meet USDA standards. “He was adamant about curing agents because they’re required and the safest way to do it,” Dan explained.
- Italian Purity and Tradition: The Italian team leaned into natural methods, using high-quality sea salt, garlic, white wine, and sometimes powdered vitamin C. Their approach emphasized flavor and purity, creating salumi that was true to its roots but less predictable.
These competing philosophies led to a unique dual-production model. One batch followed USDA-compliant methods, while another used purely traditional techniques. Dan noted that while curing agents ensured consistent emulsification and vibrant color, the flavor and authenticity of salt-and-time fermentation were unmatched.
Learning and Iterating
Dan's time in the studio was also marked by continuous learning and adaptation. "We were always iterating, testing over time," he said. He developed his own methods, striking a balance between safety and tradition. For example, while his pancettas and guanciales relied solely on salt for long dry-cures, he adhered to curing agent requirements for salamis.
He also experimented with different salts, favoring natural, mineral-rich sea salt over alternatives like celery salt, which he found altered the flavor. “The minerality of great sea salt brings natural curing agents without compromising the taste,” he explained.
The studio wasn’t just a workplace—it was a cultural crossroads. Finance professionals hosted private wine dinners in the space, and international experts shared their craft.
For Dan, this time laid the foundation for future ventures, including opening a state-inspected butcher shop in Mississippi. Reflecting on his career, he said, “It wasn’t the day-to-day grind of a restaurant. It fit my personality and gave me a chance to focus on craftsmanship.”
The Charm of Guanciale
When it comes to cured meats, few things evoke the richness of tradition and technique like guanciale. This cured pork cheek or jowl, the star of dishes like Bucatini Amatriciana and Carbonara, offers a flavor profile that many chefs can't resist returning to time and again.
Dan Latham’s love for guanciale is evident in both his personal preferences and his professional insights. When asked about his favorite cuts, he quickly highlighted guanciale, a specialty that’s both simple and sophisticated in its uses.
"Bucatini Amatriciana is one of my favorite things in the world," Latham shared, referencing the iconic Roman pasta dish that combines guanciale with grape tomatoes, chili flakes, and sometimes a bit of onion or garlic. He emphasized how simplicity is key, noting that, despite its ease of preparation, the dish can be overcomplicated if one isn't careful.
Latham’s knowledge truly shines in the process of making guanciale.
"Fat content is crucial," he explains, speaking about the lean and fatty layers within the jowl that must be carefully balanced. The trimming process is equally important, with attention paid to the texture and fat ratios.
A well-made guanciale, according to Latham, should be firm and dry, not rubbery or overly fatty. This curing process can take anywhere from two to three months, and it’s that time, more than any other factor, that shapes its distinctive flavor.
The Complexity Behind Curing
While Latham has moved away from making large quantities of cured meats in recent years, he still speaks with reverence for the craft. "It’s a complex deal," he acknowledges, explaining why many restaurants shy away from curing meats themselves. The time, space, and knowledge required for the process are often barriers to entry, not to mention the delicate balance of conditions needed to dry-cure meats successfully.
At St. Leo, where Latham now works, they’ve found a way to simplify the process while still producing unique products. They dry-cure bellies and pork jowls for seven days before slow roasting them at low temperatures, which results in a product that’s rich in flavor and texture but without the need for a dedicated curing room.
The slow roast, which takes hours at temperatures around 225°F, transforms the meat into something soft and delicious, ideal for toppings on pizza or in carbonara. This technique strikes a balance between traditional methods and modern efficiency, offering high-quality cured meat without the space and time commitments of more conventional curing practices.
The Flavorful Philosophy Behind Cured Meats
Beyond the mechanics of curing, Latham’s approach to flavor development is equally fascinating. Drawing on a diverse range of culinary influences, he’s particularly interested in how unique flavors can help differentiate one restaurant or concept from another.
He shared a story about reading The Dorito Effect, a book by Mark Schatzker that explores how synthetic flavor compounds have been introduced into food production over time. According to Latham, this book was a game-changer, highlighting the deep connection between natural flavors and the human desire for authentic, unique tastes.
For Latham, working in the kitchen isn’t just about following recipes—it's about understanding and creating flavors that resonate with diners. "What makes your food different?" he asks, suggesting that creating distinct flavors is a powerful way to stand out in a crowded market.
The Debate Over Synthetic vs. Natural Casings
Another topic Latham touched on was the ongoing debate about synthetic vs. natural casings in charcuterie. While synthetic casings are cheaper and easier to use, Latham firmly believes in the superiority of natural casings, which allow the meat to breathe better and offer a more authentic texture.
"I’m just not a fan of synthetic casings," he states, acknowledging that while they have their uses—especially for large-format products like hot dogs—natural casings provide a more satisfying eating experience.
The Masters of Charcuterie
Latham also had praise for a few producers in the charcuterie world who are pushing the boundaries of quality and innovation. He highlighted Paul Bertolli of Fra’ Mani and Herb Eckhouse of La Quercia as two of his American heroes in the salami world. Both have mastered the art of charcuterie, not only at the recipe level but also in terms of scaling production while maintaining a commitment to quality.
Bertolli, who operates out of Berkeley, California, is known for his masterful approach to both technique and flavor. Meanwhile, Eckhouse, who runs La Quercia in Iowa, has pioneered methods that mimic the microclimates of Italy’s Parma region to create high-quality prosciutto and other cured meats. Their dedication to sustainable sourcing and quality control has earned them Latham’s admiration and respect.
Key Takeaways for Aspiring Salumi Makers
- Embrace Tradition and Innovation: Balancing safety regulations with artisanal methods can yield exceptional results.
- Invest in Quality Ingredients: The foundation of great salumi lies in high-quality sea salt and fresh, natural components.
- Commit to Continuous Learning: Iteration and adaptation are key to mastering the complexities of curing meats.
Looking Forward: The Future of Charcuterie
As the charcuterie world continues to evolve, Latham’s approach remains rooted in a deep respect for tradition and an eagerness to innovate. Whether it's slow-roasting dry-cured pork belly for pizza or exploring the subtleties of guanciale in a classic pasta dish, Latham’s work is a testament to the timeless appeal of well-crafted cured meats.
In an era where mass production and synthetic ingredients dominate much of the food industry, chefs like Latham are keeping the art of charcuterie alive—ensuring that the flavors we cherish today remain true to their roots while still embracing new possibilities for the future.
Listen to the full conversation with Dan Latham on The meez Podcast
