The world of Japanese ingredients is rich, nuanced, and grounded in centuries of tradition. The Japanese Pantry, founded by Chris Bonomo and Greg Dunmore, brings these treasures directly to chefs and home cooks alike.
In season one of The meez Podcast, Chris and Greg shared their journey, revealing the stories, passion, and meticulous processes behind the products they import.
From Restaurant to Importer: How It All Began
The Japanese Pantry was born from a shared experience between Chris, an enthusiastic home cook exploring Japanese ingredients, and Greg, an accomplished chef. Together, they recognized a significant gap in high-quality Japanese products available in America.
Chris articulated this perfectly: “You can get great olive oil from Italy or Spain, but you can't get that artisanal soy sauce from Japan. And that was the genesis for the idea of The Japanese Pantry.”
Their journey began with sesame paste—specifically, black sesame paste from Wadaman Sesame, a producer Greg discovered during his time in the restaurant industry.
Reflecting on that moment, Greg recalled, “At that time, I was a chef too, thinking, if I'm going to make black sesame paste, I'll do it myself. But low and behold, Wadaman blew my mind.”
The quality was astonishing, compelling him to accept an invitation to visit Japan and the factory. This transformative experience ignited a new professional path in importing, especially as he realized that such exceptional products were largely unavailable in the U.S.
With newfound determination, Greg and Chris decided to commit to The Japanese Pantry fully. Chris, who had been regularly bringing Japanese staples back in his suitcase, was inspired to turn this passion into a business. In 2015, they traveled to Japan, forging connections with artisanal producers and initiating the import of their first products by the following year. As Chris aptly summarized, “The rest is history.”
A Unique Taste of Sesame Paste
Among their inaugural offerings from The Japanese Pantry was the remarkable sesame paste from Wadaman. The contrast between this paste and typical tahini is nothing short of monumental.
As Greg explains, many commercial tahinis undergo chemical treatments that strip away the outer husk of sesame seeds, often resulting in a diminished flavor profile. In stark contrast, Wadaman’s sesame paste preserves this husk, delivering an intense, roasted flavor that elevates any dish.
Greg notes, “If I'm making a tahini that calls for a cup, I’ll put in half a cup of Wadaman, and it’ll be just enough flavor.” This rich taste is a direct result of the meticulous roasting technique employed by Wadaman's fourth-generation roaster.
The art of roasting at Wadaman is intricate; each sesame seed is treated uniquely—golden seeds are roasted at high temperatures followed by a slower roast, while black seeds receive a gentle roast throughout. This careful attention to detail distinguishes Wadaman from typical tahini brands like Roland, which often lack the same depth of flavor.
Greg highlights that the three sesame varieties—white, black, and golden—each possess distinct origins and flavor profiles. While most tahini is made from white seeds sourced from Ethiopia, Wadaman’s white sesame retains its outer layer, enhancing its flavor. The black sesame, often regarded as a hidden gem, offers a bold taste that can transform dishes. He recalls serving gyoza with a black sesame dipping sauce, noting how impactful the flavor was, leaving diners wanting more.
The richness of Wadaman’s sesame paste goes beyond mere taste; it opens a world of culinary possibilities. Chefs and home cooks alike are exploring innovative applications beyond traditional uses. “If I put a cup in there, it's going to be all sesame; I won’t just taste the chickpeas anymore,” Greg laughs, illustrating how the paste can dominate a dish if used in excess.
Shio Koji: The Backbone of Japanese Cuisine
The Japanese Pantry features a remarkable product seldom seen in the U.S.: liquid Shio Koji. Traditionally, this fermented mixture of rice, water, and salt is employed in Japan primarily for marinating fish and meat. However, The Japanese Pantry’s version is distinctively liquid, thanks to a patented technique from their producer.
To better understand Koji, Greg explains, “Koji is basically rice that’s been inoculated with this type of bacteria,” a critical process in the fermentation of various Japanese staples such as soy sauce, sake, and miso. This specially inoculated rice acts as a fermenting agent that enhances the flavor profiles of these products, much like the concept of terroir in wine.
Specifically, Shio Koji is produced by mixing water and salt with Koji rice and allowing it to ferment for about a week, resulting in a porridge that tenderizes and enhances meats and seafood when used in marinades. While traditional Japanese cooks use this porridge directly, the liquid form presents a more convenient option.
The innovative process of converting the porridge into liquid is where The Japanese Pantry shines. By employing a sake press, they have opened up new avenues for Shio Koji. Its previous applications—often restricted to specific recipes—have expanded significantly.
“The use for this went from a couple of uses to several uses around the world,” Greg says, highlighting how chefs are now de-glazing pans, incorporating it into cocktails, and adding it to soups and vinegar.
This widespread adoption underscores the exciting potential of Shio Koji in contemporary culinary practices. It introduces chefs and home cooks to the world of Koji, enriching their ingredient repertoire while providing a clean, MSG-free umami flavor.
Japanese Soy Sauce Varieties
For many, soy sauce is a familiar condiment, but in Japan, it represents a deeply nuanced experience.
Japanese cuisine categorizes soy sauce into five distinct types: white, light, dark, Saishikomi (double-brewed), and tamari. Each variety is meticulously crafted, with unique ingredient ratios and aging processes that contribute to its distinct character.
White Soy Sauce (Shiro Shoyu) - Light in color and flavor, Shiro Shoyu boasts a mild and delicate taste, making it less salty than other soy sauces. Primarily made from wheat, it contains a smaller proportion of soybeans compared to darker varieties.
Light Soy Sauce (Usukuchi Shoyu) - Despite its name, usukuchi is darker than Shiro but lighter than koikuchi. It has a slightly saltier flavor than Shiro while still being milder than dark soy sauce. This type contains more soybeans than Shiro but fewer than koikuchi.
Dark Soy Sauce (Koikuchi Shoyu) - As the most commonly used soy sauce in Japan, koikuchi is dark brown and has a robust, rich flavor. It’s saltier and has a more pronounced umami taste compared to the lighter varieties. Koikuchi is crafted from a balanced mix of soybeans and wheat, which gives it its distinctive taste and color.
Double-Brewed Soy Sauce (Saishikomi) - Saishikomi undergoes a unique brewing process where soy sauce is first brewed and then, during the second brewing, water and salt are omitted. Instead, the previously made soy sauce is added, resulting in a concentrated and intensely flavorful sauce.
Tamari - For those seeking a soy sauce steeped in tradition, tamari is a byproduct of hatcho miso, undergoing a meticulous three-year aging process in cedar barrels beneath river rocks. This results in a rich depth of flavor that distinguishes it from other types.
Kioke and Aging Soy Sauce
For Chris Bonomo and Greg Dunmore, soy sauce transcends being just a condiment; it embodies a labor of love, aged to perfection in traditional cedar barrels known as kioke.
Cedar’s porous texture is crucial in this process, as it stores beneficial bacteria, enhancing the sauce's complex flavors. Chris notes, “Cedar’s very porous, so it stores bacteria and kind of that funk. You want that—like a sourdough room. You kind of want that bacteria in the air.”
The tradition behind these barrels is particularly important; one of their tamari producers has barrels over 155 years old. Chris emphasizes the significance of these aging barrels: “You keep that barrel because it maintains your flavor; that is the flavor of your house.” He recounts a story about a soy brewery that had to move locations, highlighting how they struggled to recreate their signature taste without the aged wood from their original barrels.
The artisanship of producers like Nomura-san, who has been crafting soy sauce for 300 years using traditional methods, further exemplifies this dedication.
Unlike other manufacturers who rely on modern machinery, Nomura-san cooks soybeans and wheat over a wood fire in large cauldrons. His koji room is also heated by a wood fire, imparting a subtle smokiness to the product. For him, making koji is a family affair—he considers himself a koji farmer, nurturing the starter culture that is essential for both soy sauce and miso production.
Chris and Greg often reflect on their unique experiences with these producers, reminiscent of Anthony Bourdain's adventures. “We pinch ourselves all the time,” Chris shares. “We get to visit these artisans, see their craft firsthand, and bring that knowledge back to chefs.”
Their deep connection to these producers not only enriches their understanding of soy sauce but also fosters a sense of community. Chris remarks on the relationships built through shared experiences and introductions among producers.
“It’s all a series of relationships,” he explains, emphasizing the importance of these connections in preserving and passing down culinary traditions.
Katsuobushi: The Foundation of Dashi
Katsuobushi, also known as bonito flakes, is an ingredient that embodies the essence of umami, and understanding its nuances can elevate any dish. As Greg explains, “The thickness of the shavings depends on how much you steep it. If it’s thicker, you’re looking at a steep time of 20 to 30 minutes. If it’s really thin, you only need 30 seconds.”
Katsuobushi comes in two primary forms: arabushi and karebushi.
Arabushi is the less processed of the two, made by poaching skipjack tuna loins, smoking them, and then drying them for about three months. The result is a flavorful, smoky product that delivers a bold taste, perfect for those seeking a pronounced fish flavor in their cooking.
When used in dashi, arabushi provides a robust aroma that enhances the broth's character, making it ideal for soups and stews that require a strong foundation.
On the other hand, karebushi undergoes additional steps—after the initial drying and smoking, it is inoculated with bacteria and aged further, sometimes for an additional six months. This fermentation process leads to a more delicate flavor profile. The result is a softer, less intense taste that lends itself well to dishes like chawanmushi, where the nuanced aroma complements the other ingredients rather than overpowering them.
Chefs often face a learning curve when selecting between the two, as the choice of katsuobushi can significantly alter the dish's overall flavor. As the chefs in the conversation noted, chefs may think they desire the strong flavor of arabushi but, upon guidance, often discover that karebushi suits their needs better for specific applications.
“When you open a chawanmushi, the aroma is what really draws you in,” Greg notes. “If you’re using karebushi, the other ingredients stand out more, creating a balanced dish.”
Konbu: An Essential Sea Vegetable
Konbu is another cornerstone of Japanese cooking, yet many chefs may overlook its depth. During the conversation, Greg and Chris emphasized the importance of selecting high-quality konbu for authentic dashi and beyond.
“When I first started, I didn’t realize there was so much variety,” Greg admits. “Now I understand that konbu from California, for example, is often used more for cosmetics than for cooking—it simply doesn’t have the flavor we seek.”
The Japanese Pantry proudly offers three exceptional varieties of konbu sourced from Japan. The ma konbu, known for its depth of flavor, comes from the south of Hokkaido. The Rausu konbu, hailing from the eastern coast, serves as a great supporting ingredient that complements other flavors.
Finally, the Rishiri konbu, from the northwestern coast, is ideal when you want the dashi to be the star of the dish.
“If you’re making dashi that needs to shine, Rishiri is your go-to,” Greg explains. “But if you want to highlight other ingredients, Rausu is fantastic.”
The aging process of Konbu is equally fascinating. Once harvested, it is laid out to dry and can age for up to two years in an environment that allows for proper air circulation. “It’s similar to how tobacco is aged,” Chris Bonomo adds, emphasizing the importance of this step in developing the konbu’s rich flavors.
Rice Vinegar: From Field to Bottle
Another one of the standout products from The Japanese Pantry is their remarkable rice vinegar produced by Iio Jozo, a vertically integrated vinegar producer in Japan.
The process they employ is not just about creating vinegar; it's about fostering a community and preserving traditional methods. Greg explained that Iio Jozo grows some of their own rice, allowing them to control the quality of their ingredients from the ground up. Each year, customers participate in the planting and harvesting, creating a deep connection between the producer and the consumer.
Most rice vinegar found in supermarkets is produced quickly—often in as little as two days—using outside alcohol. In contrast, Iio Jozo's rice vinegar takes two years to craft. This slow fermentation process is essential for developing the rich flavors that set it apart.
The regulations for rice vinegar in Japan stipulate that a liter bottle must contain a minimum of 40 grams of rice. Iio Jozo exceeds this requirement significantly, using 200 grams for their standard vinegar and an astonishing 320 grams for their premium offering. This dedication to quality results in a product that carries complex flavors and a depth of character, far removed from the generic acidity most people associate with rice vinegar.
Unlike the typical vinegar that serves merely as a souring agent, Iio Jozo's vinegar has nuanced flavors reminiscent of sake, enhancing dishes rather than overpowering them. It brings a unique viscosity and mouthfeel, creating a luxurious coating that elevates any dish it accompanies. Chefs have noted that using this vinegar can transform the simplest salad dressings or marinades into something extraordinary.
Conclusion: Elevating Culinary Experiences
As the conversation wrapped, it became clear that Japanese Pantry is not just about filling a niche market; it's about redefining what quality ingredients can bring to the table.
Their commitment to authenticity and craftsmanship resonates deeply within the culinary community. Whether it's the rich flavors of artisanal rice vinegar or the unique qualities of Soy sauce, The Japanese Pantry is dedicated to enhancing the culinary experiences of chefs and home cooks alike.
For those interested in exploring these ingredients further, we encourage you to seek out authentic Japanese products and experience the difference for yourself.
Listen to the full conversation with The Japanese Pantry Founders on The meez Podcast
